Fashioning the Body

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This unique survey offers fascinating insights into the transformations employed by both men and women to meet the ever-changing demands of fashion. With high design, wit, and style, it tracks the evolution of sartorial devices—from panniers and crinolines to push-up bras, chains, zippers, and clasps—concealed beneath outer layers to project idealized figures. Women’s corsets constricted waists, while exaggerated buttocks and hips counterbalanced jutting bust lines; chic silhouettes compressed breasts and flattened bellies. Men's fashion also embraced these practices, with men artificially broadening shoulders, padding chests, and using codpieces to enhance virility. Featuring over 200 beautiful illustrations, including historic advertisements, the work reveals the industry and art of these contrivances designed to entice, beguile, and assert status and power. Contemporary haute-couture designers such as Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, Rei Kawakubo, Christian Lacroix, and Vivienne Westwood are highlighted in this indiscreet exploration of intimate fashion history. Published in association with the Bard Graduate Center, it showcases an exhibition that ran from April to July 2015.