Barbarian Days

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Surfing transcends mere sport; for enthusiasts, it embodies a beautiful addiction, a demanding pursuit, and a way of life. Finnegan, raised in California and Hawaii, began surfing as a child and has since chased waves worldwide, from the South Pacific to Africa. His journey unfolds through the lens of a writer and war reporter, revealing the edgy camaraderie of male friendships forged in challenging surf. He recounts experiences in a whites-only gang at a tough Honolulu school, alongside his close friendship with a native Hawaiian surfer. The narrative captures the upheaval of the 1960s, detailing the intricacies of famous waves and his own learning experiences. Youthful folly is humorously depicted, including a memorable LSD trip while surfing Honolua Bay. Alongside a friend, they navigate Polynesia with reef charts in tow, discovering one of the world's greatest waves on an uninhabited Fijian island. As his travels expand, Finnegan becomes an unlikely anthropologist, exploring the complexities of a Samoan fishing village, the sexual dynamics of Tongan interactions with foreigners, and the Indonesian black market, all while battling malaria. His adventures are punctuated by the thrill of surfing, highlighting the sport's profound impact on his life.